1) Field of the Invention
The present invention relates to brassieres. The invention relates more particularly to brassieres including non-underwire and underwire brassieres, and blanks and methods for making such brassieres, wherein the blanks are formed from circularly knit fabric tubes.
2) Description of the Related Art
Brassieres are generally designed to provide support, shaping, and separation of the wearer""s breasts. Conventionally, brassieres for larger-breasted women often include underwires extending along the lower margins of the breast cups. Underwires provide a level of stability, or at least the perception of stability, that fabric alone generally cannot provide, in part because fabric cannot support compressive forces the way underwires can. Typically, brassieres are fashioned in a cut-and-sew manner, as exemplified for instance in U.S. Pat. No. 4,372,312. A brassiere made in this manner may consist of more than a dozen separate fabric pieces sewn together. One advantage of the cut-and-sew method is that different areas of the brassiere can be given different properties, since the various fabric pieces can be of different knits, different yarns, etc. It may be advantageous, for example, to make some portions of the brassiere resiliently stretchable to hug the wearer""s body, while other portions are relatively unstretchable for greater stability.
The cut-and-sew method, however, is disadvantageous in that it entails a great number of cutting and sewing operations. Accordingly, methods of fashioning brassieres from circularly knit fabrics have been developed in an effort to improve the speed and efficiency of production. For example, commonly assigned U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,479,791 and 5,592,826 disclose methods for making non-underwire brassieres from circularly knit tubular blanks. The brassieres are made from single-ply tubular blanks that have a turned welt at one end to form a torso portion of the brassiere. A series of courses for defining breast cups and front and rear shoulder straps are integrally knit to the turned welt. The brassiere requires sewing only for joining the front and rear shoulder straps to each other. The ""826 patent discloses modifying the knit structure along outer edges of the breast cups nearest the wearer""s arms to form panels having a greater resistance to coursewise stretching than the remainder of the fabric blank. The relatively unstretchable panels provide increased lift and support.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,287,168 overcomes some of the aforementioned problems by providing a brassiere formed from a circularly knit fabric tube 50, as shown in FIGS. 2 and 3 of the ""168 patent. The blank is knit to have two pairs of breast cups 24, torso encircling portions 26 and central panels 28 that are arranged in mirror image about a fold region 56 along which the blank is folded so that the cups, torso encircling portions and central panels overlap and form a two-ply structure. Advantageously, the central panel can be knit to have greater resistance to stretching than the cups and torso encircling portions for an effect similar to cut-and-sew brassieres but without seams for additional wearer comfort. Despite the minimal seams, however, the brassiere still requires the use of elastic banding 46 to secure the edges of the overlapping material together, as shown in FIG. 1 of the ""168 patent. Elastic banding has the aesthetic drawback in that it can sometimes show through a blouse. In addition, elastic banding, depending upon its location, can reduce wearer comfort.
Therefore, it would be advantageous to have a brassiere that provides adequate and comfortable support for the wearer while at the same time reducing the use of elastic banding and seams. It would be further advantageous if the brassiere were constructed of a circular knit fabric tube to minimize the amount of cutting and stitching necessary to construct the brassiere.
The present invention addresses the above needs and achieves other advantages by providing a brassiere for extending around a wearer""s torso and supporting the wearer""s breasts. The brassiere includes a torso strap supporting a pair of breast cups which in turn support the wearer""s breasts. The breast cups are constructed of a two-ply fabric, preferably a circularly knit fabric, and each of the breast cups has a fold line positioned along at least a portion of its upper edge so as to improve wearer comfort and eliminate the need for elastic trim along the upper edge and thereby reduce seams visible through clothing. Optionally, the fold may be knit to have a thinner material than the remaining plies to facilitate formation of a crisp fold along the upper edge of the breast cup, which helps the fold lie flat against the wearer""s skin and thereby imparts a smooth, finished appearance. Also, an underwire may be attached along a lower edge of each of the breast cups to provide extra support.
In one embodiment, the brassiere of the present invention includes a torso strap and a pair of breast cups. The torso strap has at least one pair of ends. A two-ply fabric material having an inner, body-adjacent layer and an outer layer defines the pair of breast cups. The breast cups are attached adjacently to each other and extend between the ends of the torso strap. Each of the breast cups has a lower edge that when worn extends under a respective one of the wearer""s breasts. The lower edge includes a seam extending at least partly therealong. An upper edge of each of the breast cups is configured to extend over at least an upper portion of the respective one of the wearer""s breasts. The upper edge is defined by a fold line between the inner and outer layers so as to provide a comfortable fit for the wearer.
In another aspect, the upper edge is configured to extend along a medial portion of the wearer""s breast. More particularly, the breast cups are attached at a point between the wearer""s breasts and each folded upper edge extends laterally upwards from the attachment point along the medial portions of the wearer""s breasts.
The torso strap may also be constructed of a two-ply material and includes at least one edge defined by a fold line between its plies. Preferably, the fold line defines a lower edge of the torso strap. The torso strap may be separated into a pair of lateral panels each having a free end opposite the torso strap""s attachment to one of the breast cups. Cooperative fastener members attached to the free ends of the two panels allow the free ends to be releaseably joined so that the torso strap can be secured about the wearer""s body.
The two-ply fabric material defining the breast cups may be formed of a circularly knit fabric blank folded upon itself along the fold line defining the upper edge of each of the breast cups. The free edges of the breast cups may have underwires either disposed against an exterior side of one of the plies, or between the plies to provide extra support for the wearer""s breasts.
In yet another embodiment, the present invention includes a blank for making a brassiere. The blank includes a first series of courses defining a first pair of breast cup panels and a first torso strap panel. The first series of courses begins at a first end of the fabric structure and progresses toward an opposite, second end of the fabric structure. An end of the first series of courses defines an upper edge of the breast cup panels and a lower edge of the torso strap panel. A second series of courses is knit to the end of the first series of courses, progressing to the second end of the fabric structure. The second series of courses defines a second pair of breast cup panels and a second torso strap panel arranged in mirror image to the corresponding panels of the first series of courses. In this manner, the fabric structure can be folded about a fold line located between the first and second series of courses to create a two-ply structure having the first breast cup panels and the first torso strap panel overlying the second breast cup panels and the second torso strap panel, respectively.
Preferably, the fabric structure is a circularly knit fabric tube, which may have a turned welt at one or each end of the tube. Also, the fold line may have a thinner knit than the rest of the blank so as to facilitate sharp folding so that these edges of a finished brassiere that are formed by the fold will lie flat against the wearer""s skin.
The present invention has many advantages. For instance, the smooth upper medial edge on each of the breast cups and the smooth bottom edge of the torso strap minimizes the amount of stitching and or banding needed to form the brassiere. Banding and seams tend to show through clothing, creating unsightly lines, especially when in contact with the clothing, such as on the top edge of a breast cup immediately beneath a blouse or shirt. Avoiding the use of seams and/or banding on the upper edge of the breast cup where a blouse or top generally makes close contact therefore improves the aesthetic appearance of the wearer. In addition, reduction of banding and stitching tends to reduce the effort and cost of constructing the brassiere.